1510421192
https://www.google.com/maps/reviews/data=!4m8!14m7!1m6!2m5!1sChZDSUhNMG9nS0VJQ0FnSURRMnZXNktnEAE!2m1!1s0x0:0x826dcd419813b226!3m1!1s2@1:CIHM0ogKEICAgIDQ2vW6Kg%7CCgwIz8ao0AUQwLSyogI%7C?hl=en-US
Ben Grass
google
https://www.google.com/maps/place/?q=place_id:ChIJNxlRaV3OXVMRJrITmEHNbYI
1
I hate whiny google reviews. I am going to leave my star rating and lay out the facts below with some photos. I did receive a full refund on labor and an apology from JK. I approached JK to put line-x bedliner and install a light bar on a brand new F150. They helped me to select a 700 dollar Vision X light bar. I discussed the installation location and wiring with both Jake and Jeremy. I wanted it centered in my central bumper intercooler opening and was told that this would be no problem. I also wanted it wired to high beams with a defeat switch. I was told that this would be no problem. Jeremy specifically asked if I wanted a switch in the dash, and I said no. He said they could hide a switch under the dash for defeat. On the day of the install, I was called in the mid afternoon to confirm desired wiring setup to high beams with a defeat switch, which I confirmed. Upon picking up the truck, I discovered several issues, which multiplied upon getting the truck home and inspecting it. I paid 240 dollars for labor as well as the cost of the bedliner and the light bar. Mounting: The light was mounted to thin, bent bumper sheet metal trim tabs. Since this was not a secure connection, the top of the light was stabilized by a visible, nonadjustable strip of galvanized sheet metal which was glued into the back of the light bar fins with what appeared to be black rubber RTV gasket material. Jake repeatedly stated that there was no metal anywhere to mount to in the bumper and that there was simply no other mounting solution. After about ten minutes of online forum research and inspection of the bumper, I drilled to the large metal bumper supports on either side and mounted the light with simple L brackets that I purchased from Murdochs. (Photo below of JK bracket on left vs mine on right). Wiring: JK was unable to get the light bar to function with high beams. They stated that they spoke to Ford who said that the high beam circuit could support no additional current draw. They wired the light straight to the battery with a switch controlled single relay. Upon finding that they were unable to draw current directly off of the high beams, they simply cut off the wire and left it bare and touching the inside of the fender (photo below). Using a standard automotive relay, I was able to switch their whole system off of the high beam. Despite JK insisting that it was impossible to control the light bar off the high beams, I have had it functioning perfectly like this for two weeks now. Relays exist to use a low current, low voltage wire to control a high voltage, high current component. I found major finish and fitment issues with the wiring, aside from JKs failure to properly switch off the high beams. These include: bare wires draped across the top of the battery, wire (with no protective sheath) hanging down from the firewall resting on the top of the engine, harness resting on a hot AC compressor line, a large balled up wad of bare wires visible next to the relay, main wire and connector visible and bouncing around freely inside the bumper, which also inhibited normal function of electric intercooler shutters. Dash: No permission was ever given to drill the dash on my brand new truck, however due to their inability to switch off the high beams, JK drilled a hole in my dash to place a switch. When I pointed this out, I was told that the original instructions were given over two weeks prior and that they could not be expected to remember this. Not only was a hole drilled without permission, but the drillings were not vacuumed up and were left all over the cab (photo below). Bedliner: -My tailgate, which previously functioned normally, would no longer latch on the left side after the bedliner. I have nothing against JK customs or its employees, and I hate to present negative information about a small, family-owned business, but I think that others considering spending their hard earned money on professional labor rates should know this information.
1523899587
https://www.google.com/maps/reviews/data=!4m8!14m7!1m6!2m5!1sChdDSUhNMG9nS0VJQ0FnSURRbDduSm5RRRAB!2m1!1s0x0:0x826dcd419813b226!3m1!1s2@1:CIHM0ogKEICAgIDQl7nJnQE%7CCgwIw7nT1gUQgOPQ_gE%7C?hl=en-US
Tyler Campbell
google
https://www.google.com/maps/place/?q=place_id:ChIJNxlRaV3OXVMRJrITmEHNbYI
1
Despite being treated nicely the work they did was sub-par. Maybe they are just bad with Toyotas, I don't know. I had an ARB bumper and bilstein 5100s installed in my 2011 Toyota Tundra. I have 3 main problems with their installation. 1: My 'cam tabs' have broke afterwards. After talking to a Toyota dealer, I was told they see this issue after new shocks are put on and the bolt is not torqued correctly. $600 to get new tabs welded on... 2: About 6mo after the work was done, my steering rack went out in my truck. I was told this is a very common issue with my model (after installing leveling shocks) and after researching it, I saw it all over the internet. I don't really blame them for this, but it would have been nice to know ahead of time. A shop with more knowledge might have known. That repair cost me $2500... 3: I don't really care about aesthetics but there is a big gap between the hood and the truck. It does not look flush at ALL. After researching I saw this problem mentioned on the ARB website when ordering. It says my truck requires extra modification for it to look nice. Why didn't they mention that beforehand? or during the repair? And if I would have known I would have got a different bumper but they said ARB is the only one they do, and I didn't find out about the gap until I picked it up.... It just seems like this shop is more interested in getting the job done and getting paid, rather than actually doing a good job.